Money & Payments

What to Charge When a Fill Is Actually a New Set

Written by Insha I., co-founder of Artisée August 2026 6 min read

Every lash tech runs into this: a client books a fill, and when she sits down, half her set has grown out or fallen out entirely. It's not really a fill anymore, it's a full set of removal and reapplication with a fill price attached to it. This is one of the most common ways solo lash techs quietly underprice their own time, appointment by appointment, without ever deciding to.

Quick answer: if retention is below roughly 40 to 50 percent, charge new set price, not fill price. The work and time are the same either way, so the price should be too.

40 to 50%
retention threshold below which it's not really a fill anymore
1
rule stated in your policy, not decided chair-side under pressure
3+ hrs
of admin a day for the average solo artist

Why this needs a rule, not a judgment call each time

A judgment call made in the chair, with a client waiting, tends to default toward “I’ll just do it as a fill this once.” That’s understandable in the moment and a bad pattern over a year of bookings. A stated retention threshold removes the decision from the moment it’s hardest to make well.

Price should track time and product, not the label a client typed into your booking form.

Setting the threshold

Retention at appointmentWhat it actually requiresWhat to charge
Above 50%Standard fill workFill price
40 to 50%Judgment call, check actual time neededFill or new set, based on time
Below 40%Near-full removal and reapplicationNew set price

Saying it without it feeling like an upsell

State the retention percentage you see, plainly, then explain the threshold from your own stated policy, before you start the service, not after. “You’re at about 30 percent retention today, which is below my fill threshold, so this will be priced as a new set.” That’s an observation with a policy behind it, not a sales pitch, and most clients take it fine when it’s stated plainly and consistently rather than negotiated in the moment.

Where Artisée fits

Put your retention threshold in the client-facing policy Artisée generates alongside your booking confirmation, so it’s stated before the appointment, not improvised during it. Payments and invoices then reflect whichever price actually applied, tracked automatically against that booking.

Frequently asked questions

A common working line is around 40 to 50 percent retention. Above that, a standard fill covers it. Below that, you're doing most of the removal and application work of a full set anyway, just without charging for it.
Yes. Price and time should move together. If a fill is taking you the same 90 minutes and the same volume of lashes as a new set, charging fill price for it means you're earning less per hour on the appointments that need the most work, which is backwards.
State it as a retention observation, not a sales pitch: tell her what percentage is left, explain that below your fill threshold it needs full removal and a new application, and quote the new set price before you start rather than after. Most clients respond fine to a clear reason stated upfront.
Yes. State your retention threshold for a fill (for example, 50 percent or more) in your booking policy or contract, so a client sees it before she books, not for the first time in the chair.